Bordered on the south by the state of Mississippi and on the west by the river of the same name, the City on the Bluffs has long been spreading eastward, taking in more and more of Shelby County. Hot and humid in July and August, Memphis delightfully enjoys a mild climate the rest of the year.

Downtown

Downtown Memphis grew from the warehouses that stored cotton and other goods shipped up and down the Mississippi River. For much of Memphis' history, this meant that the riverfront was solely a place for commerce. Today, however, some things have changed. Now, when you take a ride on the paddlewheel boats that run regular tours from the Memphis harbor, you're likely to spot joggers on the Riverfront Walk, visitors on Mud Island and elegant homes along the bluffs (including Cybill Shepard's-look for the round window). Visitors can take a beautifully restored trolley car up Main Street-parallel to the River-and stop at the Pyramid arena, grab a bite and a brew in one of the Pinch Historic District pubs, loop back to the south to see the Orpheum Theatre and continue on down to the Civil Rights Museum, located in the old Lorraine Motel, site of Martin Luther King Jr.'s assassination. A ride up to Union Avenue and a walk two blocks East brings you to the Peabody Hotel, where the downtown comeback started. After a visit with the ducks in the lobby fountain, walk to the new Peabody Place entertainment center to see a movie, or visit the Center for Southern Folklore and learn more about local culture and history. Cross Union for some popcorn and crackerjacks while the Memphis Redbirds play baseball in Autozone Park.

Brought back from a downward spiral in the 1960s and 70s, Beale Street-"Home of the Blues"-now features lively bars, clubs, restaurants and souvenir shops. Closed to traffic on weekend evenings, the area teems with a mix of tourists, suburbanites, downtowners and kids turning flips for quarters. Here you can visit Alfred's Bar & Grill restaurant, with its souvenirs and videos of Memphis' favorite son. Visit B.B. King's Blues Club and the Hard Rock Café for music, food and dancing. More of Memphis' fabulous musical heritage can be soaked up at the original Sun Studio, just a short distance from Beale Street. This studio, made famous by Elvis Presley and B.B. King, still records major musical acts.

Victorian Village

Situated on the east side of downtown, Victorian Village features homes built at the turn of the century, still standing in their original, tree-lined setting. Some of these homes offer public tours.

Midtown/Central

The Midtown area stretches from I-240 on the West to the University of Memphis area on the East, and from Southern Avenue to Jackson Avenue. This lively neighborhood harbors beautifully restored residential areas, the city's highest concentration of ethnic restaurants, trendy clubs and live theater, along with some of the best places for antiques shopping.

At the heart of Midtown lies the Overton Square Entertainment Complex, home of Playhouse on the Square, the Malco Studio on the Square movie house and wine bar, Loony bin Comedy Club, and a selection of restaurants and funky shops. To the north are the rolling lawns and shade trees of Overton Park, home of the Memphis Brooks Museum, and the Memphis Zoo.

The Cooper-Young Historic District forms the south border of Midtown. There are annual tours of the neighborhood and its Cooper-Young Festival show off the turn-of-century homes, which have been lovingly restored. The area supports some first-rate restaurants, too. Farther East is Pink Palace, which houses exhibits on natural history, the Sharpe Planetarium and an IMAX Theater.

University of Memphis Area

The University of Memphis is largely a commuter campus, thus not developing the usual collection of businesses catering to students. Instead, the stretches of Highland and Park along the borders of the campus have an odd collection of bars and a Middle Eastern restaurant called Mojo's, which looks like a fast food place, but isn't.

East

In an area ranging roughly from just East of the University of Memphis to just outside the I-240 perimeter, East Memphis encompasses the Laurelwood Shopping Center, Oak Court Mall, and the Poplar Plaza Shopping Center, the best locations in Memphis for designer boutique shopping.

East Memphians have the Dixon Gallery and Gardens, which features a collection of Impressionist paintings and first-rate traveling exhibits. Restaurants, such as Sekisui and Napa Cafe, can also be found to suit every price and palate.

North

North Memphis is the kind of heterogeneous ethnic neighborhood common in cities such as Chicago and New York. With a recent influx of immigrants from Mexico, authentic taquerias and restaurants have sprung up near Jackson Avenue. Asian shops with exotic produce and merchandise are helping the area take on an appealing international flavor.

Graceland/Airport

Mention Memphis in Paris, Beijing, or Budapest, and who comes to mind? Well, Elvis Presley, of course. The King is more connected with his hometown than are most celebrities, and his home, Graceland, brings more visitors to Memphis from all over the world than any other single attraction in the area. While you're in the area don't forget to check out the C.H. Nash Chucalissa Archaeological Museum. The museum displays a fantastic re-creation of a Native American village, including offering visitors the chance to see an archeological dig in progress.

Germantown, Bartlett and Cordova

While largely residential, Germantown brings in visitors for the international horse show. The area provides some excellent dining and shopping as well. Current favorite places to dine include the Greek/Mediterranean-inspired Yia Yia's Eurocafe and Chapultepec Mexican Restaurant For shopping, Germantowners and East Memphians flock to the Shops of Saddle Creek and the smaller Carrefour, located at Kirby Woods. Bartlett and Cordova have Cordova Cellars, where visitors can taste local wines and learn about wine-making, and the Davies Manor Plantation, a restored log home from the 19th century. Many national chain restaurants and shops along with the Wolfchase Galleria shopping mall have made this area a major draw for out-of-towners.